Rain

It has been raining here in Tallinn for several days. Showers of rain are punctuated by heavy downpours and extended periods of overcast chill. I can't wait to go home, where the weather is predictable and reliable.

Closed

Estonia is essentially closed today (as it was yesterday) for Jaanipäev, the celebration of Midsummer and an excuse for four days of drinking and bonfire-leaping. The office is running on a skeleton crew (about five people) and it is quieter than the grave.

The big worry is that the only place open for dinner tonight might be one of the tourist traps into which I was suckered yesterday. The mere thought of this is enough to make strong men quiver.

Estonian Food Odyssey

My Estonian food odyssey as reached a new low. Having survived herring lasagne and last night's antelope stew, I have been forced by the almost complete holiday shutdown to dine at Pepper Sack, a medieval-themed restaurant catering primarily for Finnish tourists.

The first course, a sort of deep-fried dumpling with sour creams, is pretty awful. Maybe the main course will be better.

Update (20:10) - main course barely edible. Maybe I should have gone for a "Palatable Wok Dish" but I can't believe it would have been any better. I am not staying for dessert.

More Estonian Food

I hiked out to the large shopping centre near Tallinn Airport this morning to see what it was like. As expected, it is pretty much like any other large shopping centre but with the addition of a hunting shop (selling a range of knives, rifles and pistols and associated paraphernalia) which seems very strange.

As if to emphasise that unfamiliar things can lurk within a seemingly familiar setting, I thought I should mention the pain-au-chocolat I had for breakfast, although that name isn't entirely correct; it looked like a normal chocolate pastry, but it was stuffed with an unknown mush which could have been apple or cheese or any one of a dozen other substances. Pain-au-chocolat with an Estonian twist. You've got to watch out for these things...

Estonian Food

I've learnt a few things about Estonia in recent weeks, one being that restaurants in Tallinn tend towards the bizarre. In the last few weeks I've eaten Medieval Pork (overcooked, boring, piggy), herring lasagne (strange, fishy, not for the faint of heart), chilli sorbet (the hottest frozen desert ever), rhubarb cake (indescribable), herring salad (a little like the lasagne, but cold), hare's liver (strongly flavoured, small and tough), layered chicken salad (lettuce, grated cheese and mayonnaise) and croissants (heavy, dense and potentially dangerous if eaten).

I think it is fair to say that Estonian food is an experience, but it is not necessarily one that I would recommend. Especially the herring lasagne.

Norwegian Blue

News from Bristol about the legendary Norwegian Blue Parrot - link.

More on Tallinn

Just back from Tallinn (Friday night) after a four-day trip. One of the problems with being away from the wife is that I sleep less because I tend to stay up late reading or working (not watching TV - the apartment I've been using does not have one). That, coupled with early mornings, hard work and tiring flights mean that by the weekend I'm pretty much dead on my feet and this morning I've barely been able to stand on the treadmill at the gym.

Dates of future Tallinn trips, plus a brief "How to survive Tallinn" guide are planned for future posts, possibly tomorrow.